THE ART OF THE RING: HIGHLIGHTS FROM THE GRIFFIN COLLECTION

This is the third in a series of books presenting rings from the Griffin Collection. Scarisbrick highlights 100 rings, which range from the ancient to the present day; the most recent is an indulgent contemporary diamond solitaire.

The volume is divided into thematic sections: signet rings, devotional rings, memento mori and memorial rings, love, marriage and friendship rings, rings related to daily life, rings set with coloured stones, diamond rings, and rings with royal and noble associations. The group of rings with links to historical figures, from Nell Gwynne to Queen Victoria, is a particular strength. Each section is prefaced with a brief introductory text and contextual images, followed by detailed individual catalogue entries

The first sections, dealing with seal, devotional, memento mori and love rings, are naturally focused mainly on earlier pieces and include spectacular examples from the classical, medieval and Renaissance periods. Other chapters, however, especially those on rings set with diamonds and coloured stones, include mouth-watering examples from the Victorian, Edwardian, and Art Deco periods.

A ring from the late 19th century set with an oval-cut demantoid garnet demonstrates how certain stones were immensely popular with Fabergé and his customers because they looked so good under electric light. A luxurious Art Deco platinum ring, with a pavé-set diamond hoop and a large cabochon emerald, exemplifies the change in aesthetics which saw green become a favourite colour. An Arts & Crafts ring, with a coloured diamond surrounded by emeralds, rubies, sapphires and spessartites, creates a glittering rainbow effect, moving towards a vivid modern look.

Significant both for its scope and the quality of Scarisbrick’s contextual cataloguing, the volume is a valuable compendium of social and jewellery history.

THE ART OF THE RING: HIGHLIGHTS FROM THE GRIFFIN COLLECTION
Diana Scarisbrick, Ad Ilissum, 2024, hb £35

Condensed from a review by Frances Parton in DAS Newsletter No. 132